Friday, July 11

Wave Height

Nokandui doing its thing


To clarify: the biggest surf we have had was on our first day and it was a very solid 4ft overhead, I did not see any doh sets; but the waves do tend to grow as you take off down the reef. It has been at least head high or better every day. The thing here is wind, not swell. There is plenty of swell and the swell gets into some spots better than others due to shadowing. There were waves on day 1 that were well over DOH but the wind was wrong. Beleive me when I tell you the last thing you want on a 10ft drainer at rifles or nokandui is crosschop or a section getting blown down in front of you.

The waves are a dream, and the day before yesterday was barrels galore with perfect wind at about head and a half. Ryan and I sat deep and inside on the reef at nipussy and took the sets that were direct south (most were southwest) these things just opened up and raced down the reef. I had 2 double barrels, and well over 20 other regular ones. Then alone I had a short 4 wave session at rifles, which is the real deal. Squarrels are at rifles, the barrels are as wide as they are tall. I cought 4 in a quick session before lunch, got completely shacked and burried on the first but I was so deep and traveled so far, when the foam ball ate me up I was addicted. The boys saw my first one from the boat and said the wave ate me alive. I wanted more. Waves 2-3, I did not take off as deep, and made it out of the dragons belly after what many would consider the best waves of their lives. Wave 4 was not as good as the previous 3 (even with the flogging on #1) and the boat was back to pick me up for lunch. At that point, we had already surfed 5 1/2 hours and it was only 1pm. The afternoon session was equally as special. More later.

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