Surf Report For Southern California
Friday June 2nd our next SW swell hits the coast. As you know, we’ve been talking about this swell for about two weeks now from a system that broke free from the strong grip of the southern jet near Antarctica and drifted northward to throw some energy our way. This one peaked with 35 foot seas about 4700 nautical miles from our shores. This is a nice distance from California, and since it did traverse directly northward when it peaked, there was little to no loss from angular spreading decay. Given all these factors, calculations confirm that this swell will bring some 18+ second energy to our coast with seas around 4 feet. Wave size, once factoring in shoaling, is expected to be around head high at most south facing beaches with standouts seeing sets running 2-3 feet overhead at times. YES
Please note however, that due to the long-period nature of this southerly swell (18 seconds), there will inevitably be some variation in size between south facing breaks depending on the bathymetry of each surf spot, and its corresponding shoaling and refraction properties. Slow-going longboard breaks may see size mostly chest to head high while the racier breaks see sets easily overhead.
Additionally, this swell has an angle of about 180, which will make it difficult for breaks with minimal southerly exposure to pull in some size.
Saturday the 3rd this swell will peak right before dawn, providing still some head high sets early on, and still overhead at times at standouts. By the afternoon or late morning, size will likely even out more to chest to head high.
Sunday the 4th should still see some SW energy, yet size at this point is looking to hover around chest to shoulder high with some pluses now and again.
Sunday the 4th is also facing some increasing westerly wind swell. This is from a low latitude system in the Gulf of Alaska associated with a Pacific trough of low pressure that could increase afternoon onshores this weekend. Additionally, a thermal inversion is likely from this system, which would keep many beaches blanketed in a heavy marine layer until early to mid afternoon while inland areas bask under high pressure. In either case, the wind swell will likely bring 8-second surf from 270 with waist to chest high (yet very peaky) waves. Since this is angled from direct west, south facing breaks--or those with SW’erly exposure--may see some broken up lines at times from this swell’s diffracted energy.
Friday June 2nd our next SW swell hits the coast. As you know, we’ve been talking about this swell for about two weeks now from a system that broke free from the strong grip of the southern jet near Antarctica and drifted northward to throw some energy our way. This one peaked with 35 foot seas about 4700 nautical miles from our shores. This is a nice distance from California, and since it did traverse directly northward when it peaked, there was little to no loss from angular spreading decay. Given all these factors, calculations confirm that this swell will bring some 18+ second energy to our coast with seas around 4 feet. Wave size, once factoring in shoaling, is expected to be around head high at most south facing beaches with standouts seeing sets running 2-3 feet overhead at times. YES
Please note however, that due to the long-period nature of this southerly swell (18 seconds), there will inevitably be some variation in size between south facing breaks depending on the bathymetry of each surf spot, and its corresponding shoaling and refraction properties. Slow-going longboard breaks may see size mostly chest to head high while the racier breaks see sets easily overhead.
Additionally, this swell has an angle of about 180, which will make it difficult for breaks with minimal southerly exposure to pull in some size.
Saturday the 3rd this swell will peak right before dawn, providing still some head high sets early on, and still overhead at times at standouts. By the afternoon or late morning, size will likely even out more to chest to head high.
Sunday the 4th should still see some SW energy, yet size at this point is looking to hover around chest to shoulder high with some pluses now and again.
Sunday the 4th is also facing some increasing westerly wind swell. This is from a low latitude system in the Gulf of Alaska associated with a Pacific trough of low pressure that could increase afternoon onshores this weekend. Additionally, a thermal inversion is likely from this system, which would keep many beaches blanketed in a heavy marine layer until early to mid afternoon while inland areas bask under high pressure. In either case, the wind swell will likely bring 8-second surf from 270 with waist to chest high (yet very peaky) waves. Since this is angled from direct west, south facing breaks--or those with SW’erly exposure--may see some broken up lines at times from this swell’s diffracted energy.
posted by Monks at
3:40 PM
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